Iceland. Just Iceland.

If you had one full day to spend in Iceland, how would you do it?

We generally avoid packaged tours, but in this case we took a Golden Circle tour offered by one of the local tour companies. We wanted to see as much of Iceland as we could, and this seemed like a good way to do it. We were not wrong.

The day started out rainy and windy (as you’ll see in a few photos—difficult to keep the mist off the lens) but lifted enough by mid-morning to show us some breathtaking sites in fall colors and without the crowds that usually overrun the sites—Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, the spectacular Gullfoss falls, and a few other sites. Along the way we saw sheep, Icelandic horses, and swans gathering for their winter migration to Scotland. (Just the swans. The horse and sheep were staying put as far as I know.) There were extensive geothermally heated greenhouses (Iceland grows most of its own vegetables), hot springs, and visible fissures where the island of Iceland, sitting as it does with the western half of the island on the North American plate and the eastern half on the Eurasian plate, is either splitting apart or growing, depending on how you see things. There is a point in Thingvellir at which the road goes directly over the border between the two plates—the only place in the world where you can drive between two tectonic plates.

One final word about Iceland before the photos. Everyone in the country speaks English and Icelandic and one other language of choice. Icelandic is fascinating in that it developed in isolation and is virtually the same as the Old Norse language that was spoken across all of Scandinavia and some of Europe over 1200 years ago. It is so close that high school students can read Old Norse sagas in their original form, as they were written more than a millennium ago.

Here are some photos from Thingvellir, the rainiest and windiest part of the trip. What you are looking at is the literal boundary between two continental plates. Click to enlarge, but excuse the raindrops.

Some photos from Geysir geothermal area in the Haukadalur valley. The oldest account of Geysir dates to 1294. The largest geyser here is named Geysir, which is where the English term comes from. It doesn’t erupt often, sometimes for years. A smaller geyser, Strokkur, erupts every free minutes and that’s what you’re seeing, along with a lot of other thermal features.

And a quick video of boiling hot springs.

And then there was Gullfoss, described in many places as the most beautiful waterfall in the world. I won’t argue with that.

Since still images do not really do Gullfoss justice, here is a video.
Hvítá (White River), downstream from Gullfoss falls. The entire volume of the water over the falls passes through this narrow canyon. The water is over 13 meters deep at this point.

Tomorrow, it’s a morning of exploring Reykjavík and then off to the US. And so ends this blog, unless something comes up tomorrow…

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Neither Portugal or Iceland

Here’s how the day went:

  1. 4:00am: Woke up in Portugal to catch a taxi to the airport.
  2. 7:00am: TAP Portugal to London Gatwick.
  3. 1:00pm: Icelandic Air to Reykjavik, a word I hope to be able to spell from memory before I depart.
  4. 3:15pm: Arrive in Reykjavik. Arrange for a shuttle for the 50 minute ride from the airport to downtown Reykjavik.
  5. 4:15pm: Took the shuttle to the main bus terminal and transferred to get to our stop.
  6. 5:30pm: Arrived at out stop.
  7. 6:00pm: Finally located our apartment after several queries.
  8. 6:15pm: Hurried off to the Bonus supermarket to get breakfast items before it closed at 6:30. Fortunately it’s right around the corner.
  9. 6:30pm: Had an incredibly delicious burger at a small restaurant two doors down from our apartment.
  10. 7:15pm: Beginning to doze off…
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Last Tag: A Few More Azulejos

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Lisboa: We Finally See Lisboa

Our final day in Portugal dawned beautifully clear and cool—postcard weather—and validated our decision to spend yesterday in the misty rain at Sintre and today exploring Lisboa. Lots of walking, lots of tile, and lots of good memories of a beautiful place.

We started the day making our way to Castelo do São Jorge, the 12th century Moorish fort that has been calling our name ever since we opened the window to our room at Feeling Chiado and looked across old Lisboa directly at it. São Jorge is a must see if only for the magnificent views (go in the morning for stunning light) of Lisboa, Rio Teja, and more distant lands, but the fort itself is a joy. The ramparts run every which way and back, and you can easily spend an hour or so walking o’er them. Because the fort is so large, crowds seem to disappear and it’s easy to find a quiet, comfortable spot in the shade to sit and gather your thoughts. Here are a few images. (Click to enlarge.)

After a long visit to São Jorge, we wandered downhill through the Alfama (an old neighborhood, the only old city neighborhood that we had not walked) and had a salad at a small café. Like most old city areas, Alfama is steep and winding. It’s proximity to São Jorge has spawned a number of souvenir shops each selling identical tiles, cork objects, and refrigerator magnets. But it has it some lovely views to Rio Tejo and brought us to Sé Lisboa, an imposing Romanesque cathedral near the river.

More aimless wandering resulting in finding a shop that sold only tinned sardines. Who knew that there are sardine vintages and different points of origin? Portuguese take their sardines seriously, thankfully.

Our only specific objective was a return to Fabríco Sant’Anna, a tile shop on a steep section of Rua Alecrim that we found on our first afternoon in Lisboa. Fabríco Sant’Anna manufactures beautiful ceramic tiles and other objects in the traditional fashion begun by the Moors over a millennium ago. All of the tiles are hand painted using traditional color sources (manganese for sepia, cobalt for blue) and are fired at 1,000 degrees. No photos, but if you’re ever in Lisboa put it on your list. Carlos is very helpful.

Here are a few more random images.

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Azulejos da Lisboa

Still stuck on the tiles thing. These are from Lisboa and environs, and we still have another full day here.

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Lisboa: Palaces, Castles, and Convents

Some early morning rain and a day that promised blustery conditions dictated our travel plans. Rather than walk around Lisboa, we opted to take the train to Sintre to explore the Palácio da Pena, the Castelo dos Mouros, and anything else we might run across. Time, weather, and crowds limited our exploration to the Palácio and the Castelo.

Palácio da Pena is a strange bird. It rests atop a very steep, rocky outcropping high above the town of Sintre. It was originally established in 1493 as a monastery, a place of quiet meditation. (Editor’s note: Ironic foreshadowing.) It was destroyed by the same 1755 earthquake that destroyed buildings in Lisboa and it lay in ruins until King  Ferdinand II acquired it and everything else around it in 1838 and rebuilt the monastery as a summer palace for the royal family. He did an…interesting job.

Palácio da Pena is a top tourist attraction. Tour buses, Tuk Tuks, cabs, and sightseeing buses provide a constant stream of visitors and give you a good idea of how sheep must feel at times. The Palácio itself is impressive in its grand audacity, but I have a difficult time calling it beautiful. The architecture is a strange mashup of forms and colors, and the tiles—beautiful as they are—seem to have been moved there from a tile showroom and placed randomly along the walls. The outside is magnificent. The inside feels cramped and confining. The decor is garishly ostentatious, if you ask me. There is little of the grandeur that you might expect, particularly if you are expecting the extraordinary architecture of the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Belém or the Alcazar in Seville. It’s certainly worth a visit, and although you can roam around the outside terraces and walls, plan on being shoehorned into the interior spaces.

Some photos. (Click to enlarge.)

For my money, Castelo dos Mouros is a more inviting way to spend time. Built in 1108 and largely intact, it suits my notion of what a fortified castle should be—keeps on high promontories, curtain walls built among the boulders, turrets, etc. It’s a ten minute walk downhill from Palácio da Pena and worth the effort even if you have to walk down and then back up the beautiful paths through the lush woods to get there. A low fog was rolling in from the nearby Atlantic coast, and while it must be glorious to visit the Castelo on a clear day, the mist provided an interesting ambience to the visit. Once inside, you can roam to your heart’s content.

Some photos:

The 40-minute train ride back to Lisboa gave us enough time to explore the fascinating Convento do Carmo, literally across the street from us. It’s the remains of a once magnificent Gothic cathedral that is being reconstructed. It also houses an archaeological museum that has Neolithic artifacts from the earliest inhabitants of Portugal. Definitely worth a visit. Photography is not permitted inside in the exhibits, but here are a few photos of what was once the church.

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Lisboa – Belém, Museus, and Tarts

Our first full day in Lisboa began with a hearty breakfast provided by our hosts followed by a walk downhill to Cais do Sodré to catch the train to Belém for the most touristy day of our stay in Portugal—thus far, anyway. Avoiding tourism is Lisboa is a near impossibility, so we’ve decided to roll with it when necessary.

Belém is a suburb (some refer to it as a district) of Lisboa, but back in the day it was the staging area for Portugal’s sailors at the dawn of the Age of Discovery and a monument to the immense wealth and power that flowed from it. It’s also the home of Pasteis de Belém, the originator of the custardy tart that you find all over Portugal and still—since 1837–its most sought-after producer. We’ve tried one in just about every location we’ve visited, and the folklore is true—hot out of the oven pasteis de nata from this bakery are the best by far. Imagine a crispy croissant cup filled with eggy custard, not too seeet, and you’d be in the ballpark.

But back to the Age of Discovery. The big attraction in Belém is the formidable Mosteiro dos Jerónimos consisting of the cloisters and the adjoining church. Go early. We stood in line for over 30 minutes to purchase tickets to enter the cloisters (the church is free) and it was absolutely worth the wait. The architecture is breathtaking, and given the line for tickets surprisingly uncrowded. Once in, you can roam both levels for as long as you want. We roamed a lot. Here are some photos, and you had better click to enlarge them.

And a few images of the attached church, including Vasco da Gama’s sarcophagus.

We stood in line again at Pasteis de Belém, followed by a quick lunch of a six pack to go of pasteis de nata in a nearby park. It was glorious.

Because we purchased a round-trip train ticket, we were able to hop back on the train toward Cais do Sodré for a stop  at the Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, a highly recommended part of any visit to Lisboa. The Museu houses Bosch’s The Temptation of St. Anthony and a nice collection of Portuguese Renaissance paintings and sculptures (about which I knew very little), but the attraction for us was the extensive collections of artifacts that flowed into Portugal from Brazil, India, and the Far East during the country’s reign as the world’s most powerful seafaring nation—monstrances, reliquaries, chalices, incense burners and tableware made of gold, silver, and precious stones, exquisite porcelains, ivory carvings, intricately inlaid furniture, and glassware. Here are a few images.

Back at Cais do Sodré, we found our way to Rua Augusta, a wide, long pedestrian avenue full of upscale shops, souvenir stalls, and street vendors and entertainers of every ilk. It begins on the banks of Rio Tejo and follows under the Arco da Rua Augusta, Lisbon’s version of the Arc de Triomphe. Rua Augusta and many of the surrounding streets and walkways boast intricately tiled surfaces. We walked the Rua to Rossio, a square that was the historic center of Lisboa and that was once an oval Roman racetrack. A steep climb back to Largo do Carmo brought us to our lodging at Feeling Chiado.

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On to Lisboa

Scott and Cathy dropped us off at the bus station in Lagos for a pleasant three hour trip to Lisboa, our final destination in Portugal. We checked into Feeling Chiado, and old hotel built in the 1700s complete with wide pine floorboards, wrought iron balconies and plenty of stairs to reach our room on the fourth floor. It has a glorious view of Convento do Carmo, right across the Largo do Carmo from our hotel and of Castelo de São Jorge, built by the Moors in the 1100s and later converted to the Portuguese royal palace, at least for a time. We had enough time for a nice salad at a restaurant in the square and to get ourselves momentarily lost among the steep, winding streets of old Lisboa looking for tile shops and local color. (Click to enlarge.) 

Our initial exploration took us to the magnificent Igleja do São Roque, a 16th century Jesuit church dedicated to the saint who protected Portuguese sailors. The main chapel is stunning in and of itself, but the Capela de São João Baptista is especially compelling. It it made of precious stones (lapis lazuli), matched marble tiles, lots of gold, and extraordinarily detailed mosaics that can easily be mistaken for paintings on the walls and floor. It was disassembled from the Vatican and reassembled here. Photos don’t really do it justice. (Click to enlarge.)

And of course, there are tiles. Lots and lots of tiles. More on that later. First full day of exploration begins tomorrow. (Click to enlarge.)

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A Salema Sunset

Salema gave us a nice little going away present.

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The Western Atlantic Beaches

Our final Salema-based day was spent exploring the western beaches of the Algarve. We set out with several destinations in mind but no specific plans. We decided to travel to the northernmost beach on our list and work our way south and back to Salema. As these things turn out, it was a glorious day of discovery.

Our first stop was Praia do Odeceixe, a few kilometers west of the town of Odeceixe where the Ribeira de Seixe meets the Atlantic. It’s difficult for me to imagine a more beautiful beach anywhere—wide, sandy, surrounded by steep cliffs with multiple striations and inclusions, tide pools, and a brilliant blue surf. We ended up spending several hours there walking the beach and having lunch at a small café overlooking the beach. Lunch consisted of a plate of octopus, sardines, anchovies, presunto ham, chorizo, sheep cheese, olives, onions, toast, and, of all things, sweet potatoes shared amongst the four of us. The “special” lemonade was made from a whole puréed lemon with crushed ice and maybe a bit of honey. It made me want to be Portuguese in a big way.

Here are some images of Praia do Odeceixe. Click to enlarge You won’t regret it.

After tearing ourselves away from Odeceixe, we headed south toward Praia da Arrifana, a few miles west of Aljezur,  and spent some time walking the beach. Praia da Arrifana is very popular with surfers and families, and we didn’t experience the same glorious isolation that we did at Praia de Odeceixe, but it was worth the effort to tackle the steep drive/walk down to the beach from the surrounding cliffs.

Dinner tonight in Salema, and then off tomorrow to Lagos to catch a bus to Lisboa for our final four days in Portugal, and, sadly, to say goodbye to our traveling companions Scott and Cathy Wells who have helped make all this possible. They’ll be spending another week or so in Portugal, and I’m jealous.

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