Gaudi’s masterpiece, to which he devoted the last 43 years of his life, is due to be completed in 2026 on the 100th anniversary of his death. Finally. The story of its fits and starts is a fascinating one, from damage during the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s to the 1950’s sale of part of the land to a developer who built apartments that now have to be repurchased and demolished to complete Gaudi’s vision, and too long to be recounted here. The ongoing construction produces some strange tableaus—portapotties on the roof outside of the Nativity spire, a basilica with three sides but not a back, and no main entrance just yet, but the effect of the spaces that are complete is difficult to describe with words, and I’m not sure pictures are much better. But here goes…

It’s difficult to get a photo of the Sagrada from the outside. Its sheer verticality is the first challenge. There are only a few spots that are far enough away and unobscured by buildings and trees that allow for a full shot. The other challenge is the intricate facades covered in statuary, symbols, and art nouveau flourishes that from any distance looks like a child’s sand castle. Gaudi had a story to tell, and he used very inch of available space to tell it.

We had an early ticket time on a gorgeous sunny day. The crowds were thin and we were able to walk in with no wait time. Our ticket included a tour of the Nativity Spire—an elevator ride up and a 400 step descent through narrow staircases, emptying into the basilica on the east side. That’s where the sense of wonder really starts, and I’ll let the images do the talking. We found the best thing to do was to find a seat either in the nave or along an edge and just stare at one spot for a few minutes. Everywhere you look, something is happening, and for all of the visual symmetry that Gaudi loved, each spot is unique. We ended up sitting for 20-30 minutes at various spots and each time was a wealth of new discoveries.

The reaches are monumental and the intricate details are compelling, but it’s Gaudi’s use of light that struck me as the structure’s most appealing feature. The basicila intentionally resembles a forest, with columns that mimic tree trunks and facades that look like leaves, but the light coming through the stained glass walls makes it come alive.

By the time we walked out of the building to the west, it appeared that the entire town of Barcelona was lined up waiting to get in. Visit early.

Some images, but head to the Photo Dump.