Did you ever have one of those days that was so perfect that you thought “nothing could top this,” and then topped it the next day?
Our second (and last) day at Quinta do Cachao was spent exploring the beautiful mountain town of São João da Pesqueira, at the suggestion of our excellent host Beatriz. São João de Pesqueira is an intriguing mix of traditional charm and modern living. None of the books that we read prior to our trip mentioned it, so it was not on our radar. Now that you know, please don’t tell anyone, because we might want to come back. Perhaps it’s the time of the season (6 Oct) but tourists were nowhere to be seen.
São João da Pesqueira is centered around the old city, now largely residential with several small shops and restaurants. It’s the oldest recognized city in Portugal, founded in 1055. At the center of the old city is the Praca da República, a cobblestone square with a museum and the beautiful Igleja do São João da Pesqueira. The residential streets are narrow and winding, and most residences are well-kept.
Because it is not a “tourist” town, knowing some Portuguese is a help. Even the servers at the excellent Restaurante Cantiflas (go early or make reservations) needed Google Translate to communicate completely. (Note: Cantiflas easily rivals Douro d Vista in terms of cuisine and service.)
After a few hours exploring the old city, and after lunch at Cantiflas, we took a short ride out of the city to São Salvador do Mundo, a group of small chapels built on a rocky hill. The climb is steep but worth it, both for the chapels and for the expansive views of the Douro valley.
And just when we thought things couldn’t get better, we arranged a tour of the Messias winery (Quinta do Cachao’s wine) with our host Beatriz. She provided a thoughtful tour, complete with a small tasting of an outstanding 38-year old Port wine from a communal vessel—a tradition of the winery. I am not a vinophile—I don’t even drink wine except on rare occasions and even then I can’t tell much difference between them—but this was truly excellent.
Here are a few images from the day.
The Rio Douro valley with new vineyard construction in the center.
Praca da República, a cobblestone square and Igleja do São João da Pesqueira.
Igleja do São João da Pesqueira detail.
Old city street.
Looking onto Praca da República from a residential street.
Doorway, old city.
Cork trees, São Salvador do Mundo.
Chapel, São Salvador do Mundo.
Oaken casks, some over 100 years old, storing wine; Messias Winery.
Grape grinding stones from the original winery.
Our host Beatrix, serving 39 year old port in a communal vessel. (Photo by Cathy Wells.)
