The morning started with an early breakfast in Kardamyli before heading off toward the ultimate destination of Monemvasia, but with a planned stop at the Byzantine archaeological site of Mystras.
Mystras is an extensive medieval city set atop and around a steep tor near Sparti. It is known for it fortified castle at the top of the tor and for its Byzantine churches and architecture farther down the steep hillside. To see all of Mystras would take a full day, which we didn’t have, so we decided to make the 1k trek up the steep, rocky path to the castle first, then explore as much of the remainder of the site as time and energy permitted. The castle is exactly what you might expect a medieval castle to be, complete with merlons, embrassures, arrow slits, and wall walks among other elements. The climb is not an easy one, but it’s worth it. (Aside: We’ve decided to write a guide to Greece for older travelers called “Vertical Greece: Don’t Say We Didn’t Warn You.”)
We spent some additional time exploring the lower parts of the city, which sadly didn’t leave enough time to explore the churches. Next time, though.
Monemvasia
Monemvasia is a Byzantine city hugging the side of a huge rock outcropping accessible by a narrow causeway. You are allowed to drive across the causeway to access the city, but no vehicles are allowed—or would even be physically able— to enter the city at the gate of the western wall. To reach our accommodations, we parked our car a half mile or so down the hill from the entrance and walked in with an overnight bag instead of our complete luggage.
One of our guidebooks describes Monemvasia as “heartbreakingly beautiful.” If our first later afternoon walk around the steep, narrow streets is any indication, he’s correct. More later, but here are some preliminary photos.
