Nafplio is a town that grows on you. It’s not a picturesque mountain town or coastal village like the ones that we have been experiencing—it has a number of moderate high-rise apartments (we’re staying in one), a shipping port, and some industries along with some trendy restaurants by the port, convenience stores, and upscale shopping. Still, it feels honest somehow—a town with a rich history, set in a beautiful location near some important antiquities, with services that everyday people (and not just tourists) need. I like it very much.
Today started with an exploration of the Palamidi fortress, followed by an exploration of Old Town Nafplio, with lunch at a small taverna which has had the same cook since 1980.
Palamidi Fortress
The harbor of Nafplio is dominated by a magnificent Venetian fortress called Palamidi, set atop a huge rock outcropping with a 360 degree view of the land and sea for miles around. Aside from being a nearly impregnable fortification, it’s an aesthetic treat—beautiful angles, arches, and stonework. There are two ways to get there—a rather long drive around to the back of the hillside on which it sits or a walk up the nearly 1,000 steps (650 feet) clinging, sometime precariously, to the steep cliffsides of the rock massif. We chose to drive up and walk down, which proved to be the right choice.
The entire fortress (which spans many acres) is beautifully lit at night and appears to float above the city and harbor, very reminiscent of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain.
Some photos:
Old Town Nafplio
Nafplio was once a major shipping center and as such was the seat of considerable wealth. The Old Town of Nafplio is evidence of that wealth, housing some beautiful old buildings with good views of and access to the harbor. It’s not atypical of older Greek villages, with narrow streets, steep alleys, and stone construction. It has become the tourist center of Nafplio, with a number of tavernas, souvenir shops, and some upscale shopping, but it also houses some craft workshops (mainly ceramics and jewelry) and the normal offices and services that you might find in any city—and a gelateria to rival the best Italy has to offer. Definitely worth an afternoon or two of exploration.
See for yourself:
