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Category: Madrid

Photo Dump

Photo Dump

Here it is–the unedited photo dump from the trip. I apologize in advance for any duplicates, thumbs on the lens, or other irritants–but there are some amazing photos in the mix. I’ll clean things up as I find time. Some photos may appear in more than one album. Seville, City Scenes Seville, Real Alcazar Seville, Cathedral Seville, Salvador Cathedral Seville, Archivo de las Indias Seville, Museo des Belles Artes Córdoba, City Scenes Córdoba, La Mezquita Ronda, City Scenes Ronda, Arab…

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Where we stayed

Where we stayed

We chose to stay in B&Bs wherever possible. (Ronda was the exception.) We hoped that having a personal connection would give us access to information and suggestions that were out of the way or had local flavor. That proved to be true in every case.   Seville B&B Case Alfareria 59 Alfareria 59, Triana, Seville, 41010 ES The Good: Location in Triana, an easy walk to Real Alcázar, Seville Cathedral, ceramics shops, the old city (Santa Cruz) Hosts Carlo and…

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Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

So far every locality we have visited has yielded a hidden gem –a museum, cathedral, garden, plaza, neighborhood, or other attraction that wasn’t on our radar but which provided a nice surprise. Madrid is the largest, most diverse place we’ve visited, and for the time we’ve had here, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza has been that gem. Yes, another art museum. The Thyssen is small but it has a marvelous collection of impressionist and modern paintings. Rick Steves describes it as having…

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El Museo Arqueológico, Madrid

El Museo Arqueológico, Madrid

If you visit Madrid, take at least a morning to visit the National Archelogical Museum. The museum traces the anthropology of the Iberian peninsula from stone age prehistory through the present time with an innovative and expertly curated series of exhibits, including some well-produced videos and stunning collections of artifacts. (The museum also includes a fine Egyptian exhibition and an extensive Greek exhibit from the museum’s  archaeological digs in the late 1800s. The museum itself was founded in 1867.) The…

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The Prado Museum

The Prado Museum

The Prado museum in Madrid holds one of the two or three most important collections of European masters anywhere in the world. Painters and sculptors from the 12th to the 20th century are represented not only by well-known masterworks but also by sheer volume and scope of their work. We spent an entire day in the Prado. Photos are not permitted once you enter the extensive facility, so all you’ll see is a few shots of the building exterior, which…

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Madrid, first day

Madrid, first day

We arrived in Madrid on Saturday evening and the first thing that struck us was the mass of humanity in every nook and cranny. Which is why it was surprising that at 10:00 am on Sunday the streets were practically deserted. We decided to see the Reina Sofia first, as we did not have advanced tickets and we thought the lines would be shorter. In fact, there was no line at all. When we left after an extraordinary three hours,…

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The Sultan’s Retreat: Generalife

The Sultan’s Retreat: Generalife

When you’re a sultan and you need some time off from the rigors of life in the Palacio Nazaríes–you know, the daily grind of sitting around on Persian rugs smoking hookahs and munching on pomegranates–you’d retreat to Generalife, a three-room escape built a half mile or so up the hill from the Palacio. The main attraction here are the gardens and the pools. The fountains were added in the 19th century. The Moors preferred still pools to running water as…

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Alhambra: The Infinite

Alhambra: The Infinite

Day Two at the Alhambra was devoted to examining and appreciating the intricate detail and beautiful symmetry of the Palacio Nazaríes. I went into the day thinking that these were details, minutiae that decorated the soaring columns, arches, floors, and ceilings of the Palacio. They are far from that. What they suggest to me is the infinite complexity of forms that make up the universe. They are mesmerizing. Some of these elements are rendered in carved plaster; others are ceramic…

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Alhambra: The Immense

Alhambra: The Immense

On Thursday, we spent most of the day in Alhambra, the majority of that in the Palacio Nazaríes. Knowing we would be going back on Friday, we spent most of our time marveling at the columns, arches, pools, gardens, orchards, and other defined spaces that make up the Palacio and grounds. We also spent time in the Alcazaba, the fort that protected Moorish Granada from invaders, and in the Palacio de Charles V, a beautiful Renaissance palace that houses an…

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