Blog – Page 2 – An Andalusian Log

Alhambra: The Infinite

October 28, 2016 admin Comments 0 Comment

Day Two at the Alhambra was devoted to examining and appreciating the intricate detail and beautiful symmetry of the Palacio Nazaríes. I went into the day thinking that these were details, minutiae that decorated the soaring columns, arches, floors, and ceilings of the Palacio. They are far from that. What they suggest to me is the infinite complexity of forms that make up the universe. They are mesmerizing. Some of these elements are rendered in carved plaster; others are ceramic…

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Alhambra: The Immense

October 28, 2016 admin Comments 0 Comment

On Thursday, we spent most of the day in Alhambra, the majority of that in the Palacio Nazaríes. Knowing we would be going back on Friday, we spent most of our time marveling at the columns, arches, pools, gardens, orchards, and other defined spaces that make up the Palacio and grounds. We also spent time in the Alcazaba, the fort that protected Moorish Granada from invaders, and in the Palacio de Charles V, a beautiful Renaissance palace that houses an…

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The Alhambra. I can’t even.

October 27, 2016 admin Comments 1 comment

Nothing really prepares you for a visit to Alhambra. At this point, our visit is only halfway over. We secured advanced tickets for two successive days because we were pretty sure that one day would not be enough to take it all in. That proved to be correct. In our five plus hours there today, we didn’t even visit every site in the large complex, much less process what we did see. The experience, while overwhelming, has thus far been…

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Observaciones

October 26, 2016 admin Comments 0 Comment

Spanish trains and buses rule. It the US had anything remotely similar, travel would be a pleasure. Similarly, tapas rule. Moorish architecture has produced the most moving and inspirational spaces in human history. When I lived on the east coast, old meant 300 years. In Montana, old is 100 years. In Andalusia, old is 2000+ years. English is not widely spoken or understood in Andalusia. The more Spanish you know, the more enjoyable your trip will be.

Help Me Ronda

October 26, 2016 admin Comments 0 Comment

The attraction of Ronda is…Ronda. Situated in the hills/mountains north of Malaga and partway between Seville and Granada, it’s one of the oldest towns in all of Spain and considered the prettiest of the pueblos blancos, towns built into the sides of hills and painted predominantly white. Ronda has been a Celtic town (that was a surprise to me), a Roman stronghold, a Byzantine Greek settlement, and a Moorish town until it fell to the Christians during the Reconquering in…

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Seville’s Hidden Gem

October 24, 2016 admin Comments 1 comment

Tucked right between the Real Alcazar and the soaring Gothic Cathedral is a much less visited building called Archivo General de Indias. It’s like George Harrison standing between John and Paul–the enormity of the outer flanks may diminish the inner by comparison, but in both cases you’d be missing an opportunity for much beauty and wonder. The building itself is remarkable, particularly on the inside. It’s a beautiful Renaissance castle originally built as a business center for Spain’s interests in…

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Real Alcazar

October 24, 2016 admin Comments 3 comments

The last full day in Seville was largely devoted to exploring the Real Alcazar, a palacio still in use as a residence by the royal family. Quick history lesson: The Alcazar was originally a Moorish palace built in the 900s. With the Reconquering (late 1200s in Seville) it was converted and expanded by King Don Pedro in the early 1300s to a palace for the Christian rulers of Spain. It was built by Moorish artisans and so it features arches,…

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Andalusian miscellany

October 23, 2016 admin Comments 0 Comment

A rainy Sunday afternoon when some sites are closed gives me an opportunity to log a few minor adventures. Mueso des Belles Artes, Seville A beautiful museum housed in a former convent found in the 1200s, itself a stunning objet d’arte. Best known for its collection of Murillo oils (1600s), it houses many other paintings and ceramics culled from other area monasteries and convents. The City Wall and Jewish Quarter, Córdoba Built in the 1200s on top of the old…

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La Mezquita. That is all.

October 22, 2016 admin Comments 8 comments

It was a rainy day in Andalusia, so we took the train to Córdoba (still in Andalusia, so still raining) to experience La Mezquita. Experience may not be quite the word to describe the visit. Immerse, maybe. Stand agape. Ponder. Ruminate. Marvel at the ability of human beings to create and inspire. Quick history lesson if you are not familiar with The Mezquita. It began as a Visigoth basilica in the 300s. It became a mosque when the Moors conquered…

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Of Cathedrals and Mosques

October 21, 2016 admin Comments 4 comments

First full day in Seville was spent exploring two amazing catherdrals, some Roman and Moorish ruins, at least one tapas restaurant (because as I write this we have not yet had the evening meal, which beings no earlier than 8:30 or so when the restaurants reopen), and a gelato bar. Much walking, getting lost, and finding ourselves. We discovered several wonderful ceramic shops in the area which produce ceramics in traditional Arabic fashion and will definitely be going back as…

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