La Mezquita. That is all.

La Mezquita. That is all.

It was a rainy day in Andalusia, so we took the train to Córdoba (still in Andalusia, so still raining) to experience La Mezquita. Experience may not be quite the word to describe the visit. Immerse, maybe. Stand agape. Ponder. Ruminate. Marvel at the ability of human beings to create and inspire.

Quick history lesson if you are not familiar with The Mezquita. It began as a Visigoth basilica in the 300s. It became a mosque when the Moors conquered southern Spain in the 700s. Until the 1200s, Córdoba was the largest city in the world. While most of Europe suffered through the dark ages, Córdoba thrived, boasting multiple libraries, paved streets, running water, and a culture that was tolerant of Islam, Christianity, and Judaism. (It happened once. It could happen again…) During this time, La Mezquita was expanded several times, always horizontally. Then there was a little incident we refer to as The Inquisition. During the Reconquering in the 1200s, La Mezquita was expanded–mostly vertically–to include Christian architecture and iconography. Fortunately, most of the Christian changes were additions and not demolish and replacements, so there is a wonderful mix of both to be experienced. There are even remains of the original Visigoth basilica under the floor and in some displays.

That glosses over some u-turns and and missteps along the way, so read more about it. Fascinating stuff.

Here are some pictures. Be warned that you will see lots of ceilings, arches, doorways and altars, mostly without comment because it’s still difficult to digest.

Note to Scott and. Cathy–on return to Seville we took a cab directly from the train to La Golondria. Mmmm…

One of the (currently unused) entrances.
One of the (currently unused) entrances.
The bell tower (not climbable) and part of the inner courtyard
The bell tower (not climbable) and part of the inner courtyard
Some of the original beams carved by the Visigoths on display in the courtyard.
Some of the original beams carved by the Visigoths on display in the courtyard.
Romanesque arches were added atop the original Moorish arches
Romanesque arches were added atop the original Moorish arches
The symmetry throughout is mesmerizing
The symmetry throughout is mesmerizing

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Tiled ceiling detain. This goes on for acres.
Tiled ceiling detain. This goes on for acres.
Looking through the floor to the original Visigoth ruins
Looking through the floor to the original Visigoth ruins
Some Visigoth artifacts on display
Some Visigoth artifacts on display

 

The Mihrib; the Islamic center of the Mezquita in which an imam read verses to thousands of assembled worshippers. It is still completely intact, untouched by Christian additons.
The Mihrib; the Islamic center of the Mezquita in which an imam read verses to thousands of assembled worshippers. It is still completely intact, untouched by Christian additons.
Mihrad detail
Mihrad detail
Mihrab detail
Mihrab detail
Mihrab detail
Mihrab detail
Mihrab detail
Mihrab detail
When the Christians ousted the Arabs and reclaimed the Mezquita, they built up as opposed to the Muslims expanding horizontally. This is the Mezquita Cathedral, built in the center of the old mosque.
When the Christians ousted the Arabs and reclaimed the Mezquita, they built up as opposed to the Muslims expanding horizontally. This is the Mezquita Cathedral, built in the center of the old mosque.
Cathedral high altar detail
Cathedral detail
Cathedral detail
Cathedral detail
Cathedral ceiling detail
Cathedral ceiling detail
Cathedral ceiling detail
Cathedral ceiling detail
Cathedral detail
Cathedral detail
The Monstrance that held the communion wafer. Solid silver trimmed with gold. Part of the Christian treasury
The Monstrance that held the communion wafer. Solid silver trimmed with gold. Part of the Christian treasury
An exquisite ivory caring of the Crucifixion, about 20 inches tall. The body is carved from a single piece of ivory.
An exquisite ivory caring of the Crucifixion, about 20 inches tall. The body is carved from a single piece of ivory.
The immense organ. Half if it, anyway.
The immense organ. Half if it, anyway.

8 thoughts on “La Mezquita. That is all.

  1. Yep, this place was an eye-opener. What a concept: people of different religions could actually get along…

    And Los Golondrinos was to your liking?!?! We were craving veggies by then, so the tapas with carrots, etc, were great!

    1. Golondrinas was very good. Ditto on the craving for veggies, too. Tapas are wonderful, but they tend to be protein and bread. I’d love a good chef’s salad along about now.

  2. We were equally blown away by the scope of this place. One of the largest single day image collections during our trip to Spain. Keep ’em coming!

  3. Fun fact about the mihrab in Cordoba. It doesn’t actually face Mecca as is tradition. It faces the direction Mecca would be if the mosque was in Baghdad? I believe. It was a statement that from the Moors that they were actually caliphs in exile.

    1. I like that much better than an alternate explanation I’ve heard put forward–that the Mihrab faces Gibraltar since you’d need to go there to get to Mecca.

  4. On the Thursday of Semana Santa in 2007, I took the train to Cordoba, to escape the madness in Sevilla. Spent something like 3 or 4 hours in the Mezquita. No space before or since has ever affected me the way it did.

    Beyond words, really.

      1. From all accounts, the same can be said for Al-hambra. Insanely jealous you’re going there and can’t wait to hear all about it!

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